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Lezení na Novém Zélandu

Jelikož na severní ostrov Nového Zélandu neexistuje souhrnný lezecký průvodce, je pro náhodného cestovatele mnohem obtížnější sehnat informace o tamních lezeckých oblastech. Tento článek by měl pokrýt alespoň část ostrova mezi Wellingtonem a cca Hamiltonem, neboť dál na sever už můj rádius na NZ nesahal.

V rámci krátkého obecného úvodu, bych doporučila, abyste se ke skalám raději vydávali s průvodcem, ve všední dny tam můžete být jedinými lezci a těžko se doptáte na cesty. Jak se dočtete níže, průvodce k některým oblastem se dají stáhnout z internetu [odkazy v jednotlivých kapitolkách], ostatní klasicky zakoupíte v outdoorových obchodech, případně musí stačit můj popisek. Dost omáčky a pojďme se podívat na jednotlivé oblasti.

Wellington

Jakožto hlavní město ostrovní země skýtá Wellington celou řadu „velkoměstských“ lákadel, což může být oproti jinak rurálnímu Zélandu příjemná změna. Nicméně Wellington potěší také srdce každého boulderisty, který nalezne v jeho blízkosti dvě výborné lokality. Baring Head a Turakirae Head leží kousek od sebe a jsou vzdálené asi 40 km od města směrem na Wainuiomatu. Obě oblasti jsou zahrnuty v průvodci Wellington rock. Nicméně na místo lze trefit i bez něj. Po průjezdu Wainuiomatou jeďte po silnici, která kopíruje Wainuiomata River až na pobřeží.

Baring head

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Baring-head.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Baring Head

Auta nechte v místě, kde se silnice u pobřeží stáčí doleva a opouští Wainuiomata River. Dále jděte pěšky podél řeky až k jejímu ústí do oceánu, kde je asi nejvhodnější řeku přebrodit. Pozor po dešti může být řeka příliš rozvodněná a nebezpečná. Pro ty co to neví, nejvíce úmrtí na horách ( a nejen na horách) na NZ je způsobeno právě utonutím, nepodceňujte to ... Nad Baring Head se tyčí maják, což by mohlo být dobré poznávací znamení.

Ale zpět k tématu. U Baring head je příjemné, že dopad je do písku a tak se tam člověk vyblbne i bez bouldermatky . Na pláži se dokonce nachází i odjištěná „skála“ Ship rock, nicméně místní jí neřeknou jinak než Shit rock, což už samo o sobě vypovídá o kvalitě skály, která je horší než podprůměrná a dle mého názoru nestojí za to tam tahat lano a expresky. ¨

Stojí za zmínku, že v létě se na Baring head odehrává jedno kolo z NZAC National Bouldering Series http://nbs.org.nz/. Pokud budete zrovna poblíž, určitě se zúčastněte - dá se tam potkat spousta lidí, atmosféra je pohodová a ještě si perfektně zalezete.

Turakirae Head

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Turakirae-Head.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Turakirae Head

Parkování pro Turakirae Head se nachází na konci asfaltové silnice, vedoucí z Wainuiomaty. Po cca 15 minutách chůze podél pobřeží narazíte na první sektory. Tady se určitě bouldermatka hodí – dopady jsou dost špatné. Oproti Baring head se zde nachází více těžkých problémů…

Titahi Bay

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Titahi-Bay.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Lynn Hill´s hill

Okolí Wellingtonu bohužel sportovního lezce moc nepotěší. Jediné lezení určené pro fanoušky zvětralých a velmi špatně odjištěných/zajistitelných skal, se nachází kousek od městečka Porirua. Dle mého názoru tam nestojí za to jezdit, ale někomu by se to třeba mohlo líbit jako nácvik do hor. www.climb.co.nz

Trochu „off topic“ zmíním, že v okolí města Palmerston North je několik malých boulderingových oblastí. Pro bližší info zkuste kontaktovat místní lezce, kteří vám určitě poradí. Já jsem byla na Lynn Hill´s hill.

The National Park

O National parku toho bylo napsáno spousty a tak se zaměřím pouze na informace pro lezce. Nevím, jestli je na severním ostrově více oblastí, kde se nachází sportovní, tradiční i horské terény tak jako v National Parku. Na Mt Ruapehu se dokonce dají v zimě lézt i mixy a nějaké ty ledy. Vše by mělo být obsaženo v  průvodci Tongariro, a guide for climbers and ski-mountaineers. Kromě ubytování v četných backapackerech lze také využít DOC kempu Mangahuia:

Whakapapa Gorge

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Whakapapa-Gorge.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Whakapapa Gorge

Ve Whakapapa George se nachází asi jediné sportovní cesty v oblasti National parku, nicméně na své si zde přijdou i přívrženci tradičního lezení. Myslím, že 2-3 dny by vám tady mohly úplně stačit. Skály jsou tvořeny sopečnou vyvřelinou, která má neuvěřitelné tření. I v létě si sebou vezměte teplé oblečení, protože Ruapehu je často v mracích a hodně tam fouká.

Přístup: [Z Whakapapa Village je potřeba vyjet k lanovkám na Ruapehu, kde se nachází parkoviště. Když se postavíte čelem k sedačkové lanovce na Mt Ruapehu, měli byste být schopní najít po levé ruce pěšinku (ze začátku spíš cestu), která bude mírně stoupat. Až na obzoru uvidíte něco jako železné tyče, následujte pěšinku po levé ruce opět do kopce. Takto se v podstatě dostanete nad hledané skály. Pokračujte po horizontu pořád dál, dokud nesejdete k úpatí skal. Hledání vám nejspíše půjde lépe s průvodcem. Celková délka nástupu je cca 20-30 min.]

Mangatepopo Valley

Mangatepopo Valley je oblíbenou destinací pro milovníky tradičního lezení. Pokud si dobře vzpomínám, nejsou tam navrtané ani štandy. Někde ale lze využít erárních smyc. Skály se nachází ccca 20-30 min chůze od od parkoviště na SH47, poblíž chaty DOC, která nese stejný název. Více info na www.climb.co.nz

Taupo

Na březích největšíno novozélandského jezera Taupo se nachází dvě skvělé oblasti, které rozhodně stojí za to navštívit.

Whanganui Bay

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Whanganui-Bay.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Whanganui Bay

Dle mého názoru prvotřídní oblast pro sportovní i tradiční lezení.

Přístup: [Najít tu správnou odbočku ze silnice SH32 není úplně snadné (hlavně pokud byste tam chtěli přijet v noci). Nachází se asi 12 km na sever od Kuratau. Nejlepším poznávacím znamením jsou poštovní schránky, kterých je tam u vjezdu na štěrkovou cestu cca 10. Po štěrkovce pokračujte cca 1 kilometr, pak se cesta rozdvojuje. Projeďte levou bránou - nezapomeňte za sebou bránu zavřít (pokud byla zavřená),ať se farmář nenaštve!]

Štěrková cesta klesá k jezeru velmi prudce, a pokud je mokro, určitě se bude při návratu do civilizace hodit čtyřkolka. Po silných a déle trvajících deštích hrozí sesuvy, které můžou poškodit i silnici! Auta se nechávají na „parkovišti“, které byste měli najít podle domo-robo cedule. Nicméně i tady hrozí, že příjezd na parkáč bude sjízdný jenom pro tank. V tom případě s zkrátka auto nechá tak aby nikomu nepřekáželo, a do kempu (kus placu s kadibudkou) se jde trošku o trošku dýl. Další Info na webu zde:

Jak se můžete dočíst na výše uvedených webových stránkách, jedná se o maorské území. Opravdu to respektujte, Maoři lezce tolerují, ale je potřeba daná pravidla dodržovat, aby tomu tak bylo i na dále. Takže:

  • -Nejezděte po cestě kolem Marae ikdyž je to pohodlnější (Marae je největší budova v Bay. Jedná se tradiční maorské shromaždiště se společenským i náboženským významem)
  • -Lezte jen na povolených sektorech a nevstupujte na zakázaná území (např. nedaleké vodopády)
  • -Za „kemp“ se platí 10NZD/noc v jednom s domků na pláži (tuším zelený) s cedulí "Climbers Pay Here"
  • -V jezeře se nekoupejte nazí, nesetkalo by se to u místních s ohlasem

Jinak hlavně v létě bych doporučovala vzít si sebou pitnou vodu, jelikož se v okolí tábořiště nachází pastviny, které vodu v jezeře mohou kontaminovat. Nicméně na vaření je to dle mého soudu na jaře a na podzim OK. Jídlo si taky vezměte sebou, nedá se tam nic koupit. Co se týče lezení, doporučuju koupit průvodce Whanganui Rock. Nejvíce lezené oblasti jsou The Plateau, Lobotomy Butress a Whekenui se spoustou skvělých cest. Nejen v obtížnosti 18-25 je z čeho vybírat. Některé další sektory, popsané v průvodci mohou být zamechované anebo je taky vůbec nemusíte najít…

Kawakawa Bay

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Kawakawa-Bay.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Kawakawa Bay

Kawakawa Bay lze charakterizovat slovy: romantika, lezení, křišťálově čisté Taupo kam oko dohlédne, spaní na pláži, co víc si přát. Ale jak se do tohoto ráje na zemi dostat? Stačí dojet do městečka Kinloch a na Nesbitt Terrace zaparkovat svůj vůz. Cestou do ráje je samozřejmě potřeba projít očistcem, který má v tomto případě podobu cca 1,5 hodinové procházky s cajkama na zádech. Úlevou je, že většinu roku se dá spát pod velkým převisem na pláži (pokud není po deštích a Taupo není rozvodněné) a není nutné brát stan. Voda se dá nabrat z jezera, ale potraviny je potřeba vzít sebou. Pokud nechcete mít v batozích víc otvorů než je zdrávo, nenechávejte v nich jídlo, protože hladové myšičky si k němu cestičku prokoušou (hlavně v noci)! Průvodce je dostupný ke stažení na www.freeclimb.co.nz

Wharepapa South

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Wharepapa-South-mapa.Nový Zéland, lezení | Wharepapa South

Wharepapa South je snad nejrozsáhlejší sportovní oblastí severního ostrova. Usedlost Wharepapa South se nachází mezi městečky Te Awamutu a Mangkino viz. náčrtek níže. Vznik a rozvoj lezení v této oblasti má na svědomí Bryce Martin, který provozuje u křižovatky uprostřed ničeho kavárnu/lezecký krám/backapcker. Cena ubytování začínala v roce 2008 na 15 NZD. Pokud chcete ušetřit, je možné kempovat na blízkém pozemku tamní školy [ne hned vedle kavárny, vjezd z Wharepapa South road], kde je k dispozici malý přístřešek s vodou a dokonce záchod a studená sprcha. Kempování vás přijde na velmi přijatelných 5NZD/noc, které se platí také Brycovi. Pokud vám to vaše finance dovolí, udělejte mu v kafáči nějakou útratu nebo přispějte na osazování a údržbu jištění – bez Brycova úsilí, času a peněz byste si tam nikdy nezalezli! V místě samotném není obchod, proto zásoby raději sebou.

Novy-Zeland-lezeni-Wharepapa-South.jpgNový Zéland, lezení | Wharepapa South

Ze sektorů uvedených na webové stránce jsou nejoblíbenější Froggart Edge a Sheridan Hills. Oblast Waipapa pak popíšu úplně zvlášť, jelikož je svým charakterem dost odlišná a taky je vzdálená cca 30 min jízdy autem. Lezení v okolí Whararapy není na Zélandské standardy nějak scénicky zajímavé, neboť většina skal je zasazených de facto na pastvinách – pozor na červené bundy a na h…..Na druhou stranu výhodou je velmi snadný přístup bez dlouhých pochodů od sektoru k sektoru. Určitě doporučuju mít sebou aspoň 60 m lano – některé cesty mají až 35m. Leze se většinou po kapsách, které jsou hodně ostré. Sedřená kůže si určitě vyžádá pravidelné restdaye.

Průvodce k jednotlivým sektorům lze stáhnout zde: www.freeclimb.co.nz

Waipapa

Waipapa je vlastně název vodní nádrže, nad kterou se nalézají velmi zajímavé skalky se sportovními i tradičními liniemi. Pozor lezení v těsné blízkosti hráze je zakázáno. NZAC vyjednává s vlastníkem povolení, o aktuálním stavu se zkuste informovat.

Na rozdíl od Wharepapy jsou zde skály zasazeny v buši a úplně mimo civilizaci. Cesty jsou techničtější a klasifikace férovější. Zpestření zajišťují divoká prasata – nutno říct, že dost drzá. Klidně se vám podívají do batohu, co že je tam dobrého ke svačině.

Mangaokewa

Mangakoewa je asi nejmladší oblastí, která by se mohla stát Paynes Ford severního ostrova. První cesty zde byly osazeny v roce 2008 a dodnes stále přibývají. Z toho vyplívá, pokud si nechcete dopřát jízdu do nemocnice s rozbitou hlavou, vezměte si sebou přilby! Průvodce i s instrukcemi jak se na místo dostat je ke stažení na www.freeclimb.co.nz

Hlavní masiv je vlastně tvořen dvěma patry skal, přičemž to vrchní je výrazně převislé. Dá se tam lézt i při mírnějším dešti, což je skvělé. Klasifikace byla, co si pamatuji, dost nekonzistentní, ale je možné, že už se to časem „utřepalo“. Dalším kreditem je také velmi pěkné a klidné okolí. Zkrátka určitě stojí za to tam zajet.

Lezecký slovníček

  • Expreska - quickdraw
  • Grigri - grigri
  • Jistítko - belay device
  • Jistit - belay (give sb belay)
  • Karabina - carabine
  • Kýbl - ATC
  • Odsedka - safety
  • Osmičkový uzel - figure eight
  • Sedák - harness
  • Smyce - sling
  • Štand - anchor
  • Uzel - nod (tie a nod)
  • Nýt - bolt
  • Borhák - ring bolt
  • Magnézium - chalk
  • Maglajz pytlík - chalk bag
  • Vkliněnec - nut
  • Friend - cam
  • Přilba - helmet
  • Skoba - piton
  • Prusík - prusik
  • Jištění - protection
  •  
  • Dober - take
  • Zruš - safe
  • Zrušeno - (you are) off belay
  • Povol - give me some slack
  • Spustit - Lower down
  • Tah lana - rope drag
  • Cvaknout - clip
  • Slanit - abseil/rappel down
  • Lézt na tření - to smear
  • Kyvadlo - pendulum
  • Délka - pitch
  • Vícedélkový - multi-pitch
  •  
  • Police - ledge
  • Spára - crag
  • Hrana - arete
  • Kout - corner
  • Komín - chimney
  • Chyt - handhold
  • Stup - foothold
  • Spoďák - undercling
  • Bočák - sidepull
  • Madlo - jug
  • Stisk - openhand
  • Převis - overhang
letenky | cestování | práce | New Zealand | studium | levné letenky | Nový Zéland

Komentáře ke článku

Adam Slachta
02. 10. 2013 v 10:23

Ahoj,

prave jsem napsal komentar, odeslal jej a jelikoz jsem nenapsal sve jmeno, tak se mi nenavratne smazal... Takze podruhe a NAPOSLED:)

Pekny clanek shrnujici lezeni na jedne casti severniho ostrova. Zhruba polovinu oblasti zde zminenych jsem navstivil a za sebe bych vypichnul wharepapa a whanganui bay. Trochu nesouhlasim s autorem, ze okoli wharepapy "neni scenicky zajimave". Mi se ty pastviny kolem prave moc libily a dodavaly tomu zajimavy charakter, ve kterem clovek zase tak casto neleze ("louka a na ni sutry...destiky sutru"), ale chapu, ze to je asi vec nazoru.

Nejake informace a doplnujici odkazy najdes u me na blogu: http://www.nzclimb.blogspot.com

(s)mejte se

 

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ASDAS
12. 06. 2018 v 20:09

 https://www.storeboard.com/blogs/gaming/dreaming-of-dream-league-soccer-hack/892666
http://www.beanyblogger.com/hackinggames/2018/05/11/real-racing-3-hack-an-incredibly-easy-method-that-works-for-all/
http://www.tibc.tv/jomsocial/31497-chad/groups/viewgroup/1394-the-ultimate-guide-to-boom-beach-hack
http://staging.oceanactionhub.org/make-your-hungry-shark-evolution-hack-reality
http://faithrootedorganizing.net/gaminghacks/2018/05/23/subway-surfers-hack-the-easy-way/
https://www.efghouston.org/ToupieDev/groups/15-signs-youre-in-love-with-zombie-tsunami-hack/
http://www.gayflorida.com/index.php/jomsocial/groups/viewgroup/909-pick-the-right-hay-day-hack-to-set-up
https://www.pin2ping.com/blogs/722685/42684/ow-to-improve-at-subway-surfers
http://staging.oceanactionhub.org/seeking-best-guns-boom-hack
http://www.tibc.tv/jomsocial/31497-chad/groups/viewgroup/1329-15-outrageous-ideas-for-your-dream-league-soccer-hack
https://www.penflip.com/maxgray/rules-of-survival-hack-what-to-do-when-rejected
http://joehilldottvcom.jamroomhosting.com/androidgamehacks/blog/12090/21-scary-boom-beach-hack-ideas
https://truxgo.net/blogs/15889/24434/the-most-and-least-effective-ideas-in-gunship-battle-hack
http://www.arthood.com/blogs/4679/49646/the-future-of-gunship-battle-hack
https://www.gamerlaunch.com/community/users/blog/5025626/1893932/looking-for-most-effective-asphalt-8-hack-appropri/?gid=535
https://connect.opensuse.org/pg/groups/59875/what-is-the-best-bullet-force-hack-on-the-internet/
http://faithrootedorganizing.net/gaminghacks/2018/05/23/the-rank-of-rules-of-survival-hack-in-consumers-market/
http://groupspaces.com/gaminghacks/pages/how-to-get-the-best-asphalt-8-hack
http://www.musicrush.com/chadsimmons/blog/8680/warning-these-9-mistakes-will-destroy-your-real-racing-3-hack
http://brooklynne.net/profiles/blogs/boom-beach-hack-is-bound-to-make-an-impact-in-your-game
http://www.gorelations.com/blogs/3725/29391/the-truth-about-fortnite-hack-in-3-minutes
http://coininfifa.mixxt.at/networks/blog/post.chad.simmons:8
http://whers1959.booklikes.com/post/1667924/think-you-re-an-expert-in-golf-clash-hack-take-this-quiz-now-to-find-out
https://meetmeattheopera.com/groups/10-things-you-have-in-common-with-fifa-mobile-hack/
https://www.missunitedstatesagriculture.org/groups/why-you-should-not-go-to-boom-beach-hack/
http://uniquethis.com/blogs/16396/57748/skills-that-you-can-learn-from-golf-clash-hack
https://www.bloglovin.com/@johnsimmons2/ten-ways-to-learn-dream-league-soccer-hack
http://www.fbioyf.unr.edu.ar/evirtual/blog/index.php?entryid=67984
http://brooklynne.net/profiles/blogs/seven-reasons-why-people-love-fortnite-hack
http://muzikspace.com/blogdetails.aspx?blogid=21320
http://www.cinenetworld.com/member/blog_post_view.php?postId=44778
http://greecefriends.de/blog/Chadmanemoj/you_should_experience_hungry_shark_evolution_hack_at_least_once_in_your_lifetime_and_here039s_why-1337369.html
http://www.gayflorida.com/index.php/jomsocial/groups/viewgroup/921-fortnite-hack-what-a-mistake
http://www.tibc.tv/jomsocial/31497-chad/groups/viewgroup/1398-15-outrageous-ideas-for-your-golf-clash-hack
http://community.smithvillereview.com/blogs/detail/14809/
http://www.petsusa.org/events/15-great-lessons-you-can-learn-from-dream-league-soccer-hack
http://androidhacks.gratisblog.biz/2018/05/12/your-key-to-success-rules-of-survival-hack/
http://www.clubwww1.com/dating/member/blog_post_view.php?postId=24384
http://www.facecool.com/profiles/blogs/how-to-get-the-topmost-asphalt-8-hack
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https://www.gamerlaunch.com/community/users/blog/5025626/1893929/how-not-to-get-discovered-with-war-robots-hack/?gid=535
http://webhiveteam.com/demo4_chameleon/blogs/2669/40972/finding-the-finest-bullet-force
http://community.smithvillereview.com/blogs/detail/14770/
https://connect.opensuse.org/pg/groups/59941/3-ways-to-have-a-more-appealing-subway-surfers-hack/
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http://templatedevelopers.grou.ps/talks/7807082
http://community.smithvillereview.com/blogs/detail/14778/
http://faithrootedorganizing.net/gaminghacks/2018/05/20/make-your-golf-clash-hack-a-reality/
http://groupspaces.com/gaminghacks/pages/find-out-how-i-get-my-msp-hack-in-2-days
http://www.arthood.com/blogs/4679/50336/rules-of-survival-hack-etics-and-etiquette
http://greecefriends.de/blog/Chadmanemoj/how_to_improve_at_fortnite_hack_in_60_minutes-1338095.html
http://staging.oceanactionhub.org/will-boom-beach-hack-ever-die
http://talking.hotcom-web.com/wordpress/community/understand-the-background-of-golf-clash-hack-now/
http://faithrootedorganizing.net/gaminghacks/2018/05/23/10-ways-fortnite-hack-can-improve-your-business/
http://www.charlottestories.com/groups/fast-track-your-boom-beach-hack/
http://faithrootedorganizing.net/gaminghacks/2018/05/23/take-10-minutes-to-get-started-with-zombie-tsunami-hack/
https://truxgo.net/blogs/15889/25099/the-ten-commandments-of-war-robots-hack
https://www.feedsfloor.com/gaming/you-will-thank-us-10-tips-about-war-robots-hack-you-need-know
http://webhiveteam.com/demo4_chameleon/blogs/2669/41295/looking-for-the-most-effective-a
https://www.penflip.com/maxgray/the-hollistic-aproach-to-subway-surfers-hack
http://www.sobgamers.com/gamer/blogs/post/47579
http://community.effinghamherald.net/blogs/detail/40321/
http://www.mypolonia.com/blog/view/id_97481/title_Simple-Guidance-For-You-In-Sims-Freeplay-Hack/
http://www.facecool.com/profiles/blogs/learn-to-do-dream-league-soccer-hack-like-a-professional
https://www.storeboard.com/blogs/gaming/hungry-shark-evolution-hack-and-love-have-4-things-in-common/892701
http://www.gorelations.com/blogs/3725/29087/seeking-the-best-8-ball-pool-hack-online
http://muzikspace.com/blogdetails.aspx?blogid=21314
http://groupspaces.com/gaminghacks/pages/how-to-own-gunship-battle-hack-for-free
http://talking.hotcom-web.com/wordpress/community/15-common-myths-about-dream-league-soccer-hack/
http://www.fbioyf.unr.edu.ar/evirtual/blog/index.php?entryid=67927
http://webhiveteam.com/demo4_chameleon/blogs/2669/41174/mobile-legends-hack-how-to-be
http://bookbuilder.cast.org/view.php?op=view&book=129050&page=1
http://www.allpix.net.ee/blogs/post/13797
http://thebikersroadhouse.com/blog/4116/best-8-ball-pool-hack-online/
http://dailygram.com/index.php/blog/468632/free-advice-on-real-racing-3-hack/
http://www.arthood.com/blogs/4679/50386/best-asphalt-8-hack-online
http://www.beanyblogger.com/hackinggames/2018/05/10/how-you-can-do-dream-league-soccer-hack-almost-instantly/
http://simefuneralforum.com/blogs/gaminghacks/2018/05/22/how-to-successfully-do-a-roblox-hack/
https://peatix.com/group/325578/view
https://headwayapp.co/61188-none-changelog
http://www.beanyblogger.com/hackinggames/2018/05/14/whats-the-ideal-asphalt-8-hack-on-the-net/
http://www.osnabruecker.com/blog_entry.php?user=miller1&blogentry_id=19989
http://greenwichparentvoice.com/user-groups/boom-beach-hack-how-to-be-more-productive/
http://cuisinedrop.com/blogs/4222/34488/rules-of-survival-hack-choosin
http://bandmag.com/henrylee/blog/479/solid-reasons-to-avoid-subway-surfers-hack

 

xiaojun
19. 06. 2018 v 10:00

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